Oh what a day! We started with a fantastic breakfast at Skogar Guesthouse. Homemade bread, pancakes, homegrown eggs and other yummy stuff.
Seljalandfoss was horribly crowded with tour buses, so we passed it and headed up the road to thorsmörk. There was a scenic F-road that Jason pointed out. Oh, so glad! It went up and up and up and gave us the most wonderful view! It also had a hidden valley of waterfalls – there seem to be a lot of those.
On to Thorsmörk! It is described as a valley between two glaciers. That sterile description does nothing to convey the sheer beauty of this drive. Granted, it was an F-road and therefore spine- jarring. Also, we had about a dozen rivers to ford. Jason, having done off-roasting before, knew what he was doing , which is a good thing. Some were big!
About halfway up, we saw a turnoff for a site, so we explored. It was (drumroll) a glacier ice cave! I had researched going into an ice cave, but all of them were said to be filled with rivers in the summer, so unexplorable. This one had a river, but had room to enter. We didn’t go far, but we did go in. Oh, and we had to walk across a river to get to it. The first time, I took off my sneakers and socks and got bruised arches and freezing feet. The way back I just kept on the shoes and walked through. I had dry socks and my hiking boots in the car (which I should have had on to begin with!)
We continued on into Thorsmörk, appreciating the surrealistic rock formations and greenery, and got to the end – which looked like a camping resort. Taking a side road, we found more camping spots – and a huge dumpster. Taking advantage, we dumped our own trash.
I have to admit, that was the longest garbage run I’ve ever done! 2hours each way. Must be a record!
We headed back, and realized we were low on gas. Oops! I drove back to get practice at 4×4 driving, and forded my own rivers, woohoo! We made it back to the main road, and GOS said gas was nearby. It lied! We ended up in Vík, got gas and groceries, and explored a black sand beach. It had a basalt column cave and puffins! Adorable!
A great but tiring day!
Don’t miss information on Celtic myth and history, as well as practical travel planning tips, and hidden places, in my travel books. And watch out for my upcoming historical fantasy novel, Legacy of Hunger!
– Stunning, Strange and Secret: A Guide to Hidden Scotland
– Mythical, Magical, Mystical: A Guide to Hidden Ireland
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