Today was Iceberg Day. I did sneak in one waterfall, but icebergs were definitely the star.
Breakfast isn’t included in this guesthouse, so we went to the restaurant across the street to break our fast. They had many selections including herring, many cold cuts, hard boiled eggs, homemade bread, etc. a new addition was a slice of chocolate cinnamon layer cake. Wow!
First stop was Jökulsárlón, the lake of icebergs which have called from the glacier. It is enormous. And they escape from the lake through a tiny river, so they ‘gather’ at it like people waiting to board a flight to plane before their turn.
The colors were amazing, even in the misty rain. Blues and blacks and silvers. Stripes and crystal clear bits. Amorphous shapes and sharp edges, reflecting the eternal mists of thousands of years. The dozens of other tourists and rain made it a bit difficult to enjoy the serene beauty of nature.
We escaped the increasing rain by heading south to another, smaller iceberg lake, Fjallasárlón. This one wasn’t as impressive, but much quieter.
We headed south and found a glacier. Imagine that! There were glaciers every mile or so along the coast. Vatnajökul was a massive volcano glacier that covered this corner of Iceland. It sent out glaciers like fur.
This one was called Kviamyrarkambur. Say that five times fast! We hiked up to see it along with about five other tourists.
The vast majority of tourists we have seen have been German, but many others have shown up now and then.
Ska fateful was our next stop, as I wanted to see Svartifoss, the black waterfall. It was a fairly easy mile hike up, and the waterfall was cool, but I might be getting jaded.
We went south to check out some turf-roofed cottages at Nupsstadúr, but the gate was closed. I took some photos from the road and we returned to our guesthouse.
Jadon needed some rest so I had a smoked Arctic char sandwich and went to see if I could get into one of the zodiac body tours on the glacier lake. I was in with a Mandarin family of six women and several Germans. They took us to the glacier itself, a good 10 minutes at a fast clip, and then brought us back more slowly, checking out individual icebergs.
After the tour, we went to Höfm for dinner. We ate at the Vikin restaurant and sports bar, steak and a lobster sandwich. It was yummy, and we arrived just before about 50 other people, including the mandarin family.
On the way back from dinner we saw a herd of reindeer on the side of the road 😄
Some observations so far:
- Most tourists are nice. Some are inconsiderate idiots, stopping in the middle of the road to take photos.
- Every young Icelander we have seen has been beautiful. Seriously. And fit, no one here is overweight.
- We keep passing a guy on route 1, jogging along pushing a plastic-covered baby carriage. Three times now.
- The hay bales are bagged in different colors. We saw a field of black ones squared off against white ones, and decided the two factions were at war. Green seems to have sided with the white for now, while beige remains neutral.
- I have seen more hitchhiker a in a week than I have seen my entire life, by far.
- Our rental car has a small plastic parrot dangling from the rear view mirror. Therefore the car is named Jimmy. (Buffet)
- Heated seats are the bomb. Don’t tour Iceland without them!
- Also don’t tour Iceland without a 4WD. The awesome sites are all down F-roads.
Don’t miss information on Celtic myth and history, as well as practical travel planning tips, and hidden places, in my travel books. And watch out for my upcoming historical fantasy novel, Legacy of Hunger!
– Stunning, Strange and Secret: A Guide to Hidden Scotland
– Mythical, Magical, Mystical: A Guide to Hidden Ireland
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